GALAPAGOS!!!

We sailed into Galapagos without the correct paperwork as we hadn't booked Brahminy in 3 months in advance. It is very difficult to get all the permits for the Galapagos as a yacht. We decided on visiting the most remote of the three islands, Isabella for the 1 port stay. We arrived and were told that unless we had an emergency we could only stay 24 hours. Luckily I did have the gear cable still broken but wired up, but when the Navy rep inspected it, the agent said that this still wasn't good enough! So seeing as Ken had actually been seasick, he took one for the team and visited the medical clinic. It was an interesting situation and there are some very funny stories to tell at a later date! But in the end with much discussion and standing around in the port captains office we were given a permit to stay!!! As soon as you arrive, the wildlife surrounds you, we had seals, dolphins, pelicans and penguins all around Brahminy from day 1. The dingy dock is covered with Sea Lions who have taken over the seats and shady spots and there are marine iguanas everywhere. I really love this place, I don't think I have ever seen a place where animals and humans live together in such harmony. I trekked up to Siera Negra, the second largest crater in the world, went to Los Tunnelas and swam with giant Green sea turtles, manta rays and sharks, dived with Hammerhead sharks and sat with ancient land tortoises and fed them hibiscus flowers in the bush. What an experience and adventure! 

Getting Diesel and water in order to leave was another huge hurdle to cross but eventually we managed it in various ways. Today we sail for the Marquesses, a 3000 NM journey and hope to have good winds and safe sailing. Then I am back to Australia and look forward to catch up with everyone soon!

The pelicans assumed this position on Brahminy and stayed put!

Marine Iguanas everywhere, vegetarian cuties!

The dingy dock, taken over for good by the seals who get frustrated if you get too close into their comfortable space...

This guy is huge and approx 150 years old, he lives in a sanctuary now and is helping to re-populate the islands Tortoises.

Exploring Isabella by bike!

The islands are very dry and dusty on the lowlands but up high they are fertile, lush and cool.

The turtle breeding program is fantastic. Every 3 months they weigh and measure the Tortoises, and I was lucky enough to be there on the day!

Feeding time for the juiveniles

I made a little buddy up at the Siera Negra trail...

Ken diving off into the 10km diameter Siera Negra crater

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Where are you Sara? You would have loved this!!!

The huge Green Sea turtle bigger than me that I was able to swim with for about half an hour, amazing.

ORCA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hammerheads, a dream for me come true.

The main drag of Isabella

Los Tunnelas

The only way I was eventually able to get water was in 15 20 litre filtered water containers...Where there's a will there's a way!

The best Cafe in town run by Jimmy who walks and cleans the rubbish off the beach every day. He also makes an awesome burger and the wifi is the best in town. Thanks for everything Jimmy!!!

Check out the sign at the Booby Trap the day I left! ' 'Ta Ta Danny Boy!'

Panama to Galapagos Crossing!

The Crossing was approximately 1000 NM and we covered the distance in 7 days. There was very very little wind as expected. We ended up motoring for about 75 hours and had plenty of fuel left over. Brahminy isnt the same without Sara as she had to return to work and Brahminy and I miss her to bits! Brahminy now has 2 new crew! Darshy arrived and helped with the Canal transit and then Ken arrived and is now onboard. See the photos!

New Crew member Darshy!

New crew member Ken!

LAND! The Galapagos island of Cristobal

THE PANAMA CANAL!!!

What an experience! One of the greatest man made engineering feats of our time and we transited on the 100th anniversary! The canal was completed in 1914 by the Americans. The French started construction in the late 1800's by the same engineer who made his fame by engineering the Suez Canal. But the Suez was sand and desert where Panama was jungle, rock and mountains, proving almost impossible and as the French investors lost too much capital and many thousands perished, they finally withdrew from Panama. 

Then in the early 1900's the Americans, pushed by a desire to have naval superiority in on each side of their continent took off where the French left off. it took many, many years and reportedly over 20,000 people perished, mainly from Malaria and yellow fever. In fact this was the site where they discovered that Malaria was actually carried by the little 'Mozzie'. Finally by draining all the swampy water and installing fly screens on every hut, the disease was reduced by a significant percentage. 

The most amazing thing about the canal is that the ONLY thing that has changed in 100 years is that they have put hydraulic rams on the lock gates instead of electric motors.

Sara expertly researched and planned all the administration side of our transit and we were able to organise everything without an agent which was a rare feat when talking to most of the other boats who paid large amounts of cash for an agent. We had to visit the dodgy end of town to deposit the cash into the Port Citibank which was an experience but it was all fun and Sara knew exactly what we needed to do. For other people out there, you dont need an agent as we proved, but you need to work a little harder to organise everything but a friendly smile goes a long way!

Thanks to our amazing line handlers Darshey, Robyn and Alyra who volunteered to come on Brahminy for the experience. You were all amazing!

Sara's now famous Shelter Bay Marina notice! We were literally swamped with line handlers a few minutes after this went up. 

The old forts and barracks left by the Americans when they were ousted out of Panama in 1989. Shelter Bay Marina was the Navy Base.

Our early morning walks around the jungles were amazing, Howler monkeys, birds of all sorts, and giant Guinea pig cuties which we still haven't found out the name...

The new Canal Gates! The new canal is being built next to the existing ones and will take the super panamax cargo and container ships.

We got to the Gatun Locks at night. We were rafted up with a mono hull on either side and Dan steered all three from lock to lock with no damage to any of the boats. It was pretty hair raising to be responsible for the boat on either side to make sure neither of them scraped the savage concrete walls little over 1 meter on either side. Well done little Brahminy!

Goodbye Atlantic, hello Pacific!

The water gravity filling from Gatun lake, mega eddies going on! Sara keeping watch

Our first 'Advisor' Robyn was a legend.

 

After a night on Gatun Lake, Sara and Alyra cooked up a storm for brekky!

25 NM through Gatun lake to the Miraflores Locks. Sara expertly skippered brahminy most of the way! 

Widening the banks for ever larger ships. Each white post is a hole with dynamite ready to blow.

General Noriega is apparently imprisoned here in the 'cut' approaching the Mira Flores locks

The gear cable snapped at the worst possible time and chief engineer Robyn jumped into the engine bay to the rescue. We had to manually put the port motor into gear.

We transited next to this ferry in the mira flores first lock, pretty dodgy but no damage!

The 'Mules' on the canal pull the large tankers and ships through the locks

The expert Line Handler team!!!

mmm something not quite right in this picture...

The visitor centre, hundreds of people watching Dan as he tried to fix the broken gear linkage cable...

we tried not to get too close to this!

Dan burried in the steaming hot engine bay fixing the cable...

Alyra sleeping off all the hard work!!!